saw melamine | no chip | woodworking | dave stanton | how to basics

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I show you how to cut melamine on any table saw and make an excellent result without chip or tear out. Links below to things I used in this video – affiliate disclosure – you will be supporting this channel at no extra cost to yourself.
(Check your countries’ voltage)

Rockler crosscut sled. //amzn.to/2l2pb4L

Push block. //amzn.to/2kaSovY

Could have used a gripper to be safer. //amzn.to/2kBEljP

Festool compound miter saw. //amzn.to/2iRtrSs

Mitreset. //miterset.myshopify.com/?aff=5

FLAI blades (no affiliation other than they are nice guys!). //www.promac.com.au/

For more woodwork tips, reviews and festool videos watch subscribe here. //www.youtube.com/user/Davesbuildtips

Keep up with me on Dave’s Facebook.
//www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010277913530

saw melamine | no chip | woodworking | dave stanton | how to basics . Basic ideas

Want to enable your desktop computer to Bluetooth? Grab one of these!! //amzn.to/2l7lhH8

Comments

David Stanton says:

I could have been extra safe doing the through cut on the table saw by using my gripper push block. As not everyone can afford a gripper and melamine is a slippery product, the main thing is to use a push stick or block that has a non slip surface. And keep your wits about you!

Gerard Mushin says:

Máster!!!!!!!!!! Thank you!!!!

Michael Shramowiat says:

Very impressive shop

stephenc4161 says:

just buy one with a scribing blade.

gregg stephens says:

Dave… are you using the FLAI Mustang Multi Material Saw Blades in your video?

Brian Williams says:

30 years ago I fitted out my kitchen with purchased door and drawer fronts from a company closing down and making the carcass for both myself . So I asked a fitter how to keep melamine boards from chipping on a saw cut, he advised buying a router, which I did and was amazed how well the finish was. I now have a small table saw and have purchased a triple tooth saw blade and look forward to see if the results are comparable with the router.

Max Heazlewood says:

Thanks for the tip mate. I was frustrated that while using a similar blade (not as good as yours but same tooth setup). With a zero clearance insert i was getting a clean bottom but the top was not great at all. Using your method instantly perfect no chips at all. Will have to shout you a drink at the next wood show.

monte07977 says:

Great video👍🏼
What is the white saw fence made out of if you don’t mind me asking?

Dimitri F says:

Hi David. Great video on cutting clean edges. Do you have on which cover cutting with a hole saw?

R AD says:

This is the only way to cut melamine successfuly. The other way is to buy a european style panel saw with a scribing blade but it's gonna cost you a kidney I'm afraid…

Danny Boy says:

Thanks so much for sharing this. You've no idea how much time I have wasted, trying to cut melamine cleanly – scoring the surface with a utility knife, cutting slightly oversize, then trimming the edge to finished size with a straight cutting router bit, running against a straight edge. It works but takes so long to set up for each cut. Wish I had seen this before now. Will try it on plywood too. Thanks again. Great videos!!

WhoDatBe Dare says:

I just completed a very large personal Melamine storage cabinet project. I wanted to develop my own technique on how to cut melamine perfectly every time. Even though I spent quite a bit extra on a melamine blade as you demonstrated, and many many trial and errors, the only way I could guarantee no chips out on BOTH sides was to:
1) scribe 2mm depth on one side
2 flip the workplace over
3) scribe 2mm depth opposite the first scribe
4). Raise the blade just enough to remove the rest of the meat of the interior.

So on 16 mm thickness the third cut would be 14mm blade height to remove the remaining 12mm.

Taking the extra time before assembly I didn’t have to worry about hiding chip outs.

HTH

Biggsy1970 says:

I've always done a scoring cut anyway when using a sliding mitresaw , best way to get a clean cut. I have noticed the since having a Kapex it isn't as important as it cuts pretty clean anyway

Ferenc Gácsi says:

Good idea, we've been doing this for a long time, it works with any kind of material and blade(carbide tipped of course), the most important thing is that your saw's rise and fall mechanism and alignment needs to be PERFECT if you want perfect results…the sawblade's distance from the fence has to be exactly the same at both(lower and higher) positions. Be safe, have a good day!

Jeff DeLuca says:

Good info – tell me Dave who makes your countertops with the rounded edge? Some of your surfaces are quite wide so I assume they aren't big box store kitchen tops – thx mate

New Identity says:

Hi David,
I only have a 4" circular saw. Can it be used for absolute clean cut?

Terry Lyons says:

First, let me say that I love your videos. I'm super excited about the MiterSet since seeing it featured in a previous video, but while I do agree that this technique will work as I've used it in the past, I find it's fairly impractical if you're doing a lot of cutting of various sized parts as it essentially doubles the amount of passes required. Still, it does work though.

B A says:

just tried this with my stacked dado on particle board laminated on both sides making half-laps…..awesome!
absolutely no chips, even with heavily used dado blades.

Michael Dillon says:

I bought a new Blade with 40 plus teeth and that makes a difference to cutting melamine cleanly too.

eddomak says:

Thanks for the video Dave! I have been watching your videos for a while now (especially as I am based in Sydney and some reviews of products available locally is good) and have enjoyed them and learnt a lot. It was only after watching this particular video that it occurred to me to score first using my track saw. Did it this weekend to great effect! Thanks again! P.S. my kids love the videos where Barry the Pug makes an appearance.

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