Stop Slippery Wood Glue Ups: 5 Quick Gluing Hacks – Woodworking Tips and Tricks

Share it with your friends Like

Thanks! Share it with your friends!


Here are 5 life hacks to prevent slippery adhesives on boards from getting out of hand on you when you are gluing them together such as when making table legs or other thicker wood structural components.

5 Quick Glue Hacks: //
Salt and Grit on Glue Joints: //
5 Quick Woodworking tips and tricks: //

**** Read the Full Article by Colin Knecht on these Slippery Wood Glue Hacks here: //

**** Subscribe here – //
** Like me at Facebook: //
** Visit the website: //
** Follow on Instagram – //
** Follow on Twitter: //
** Connect with me on Google+: //


John Thompson says:

Good tips, as usual.You said with one of the tips, put glue on both pieces. Would like to see a video on that. I have never – or rarely ever used glue on both pieces and have never had a fail.So would be interested in your view.

misoman says:

I do the staple trick all the time, figured it was pretty well known. Guess not. 😉

Stephanie Berry says:

Excellent tips!

Joe DeMarco says:

Wish I watched this video yesterday. Great video as usual.

Tom Beuckelaere says:

Love the Bynford nailer you have!

Craig Buzzart says:

Use hot hide glue or fish glue it has a very high tack capillary action.

Unlike other adhesives, animal hide glue bonds in two steps. An initial tacking occurs when the glue cools from its application temperature of 140-150° Fahrenheit to about 95°F. The bond becomes complete when the water evaporates out of the glue.

The initial tack allows you to glue two pieces of wood together without clamps. Simply apply the glue to both surfaces and rub the pieces together to work out the excess glue. As the glue cools, it gels and the pieces begin to stick. Position them correctly and let the glue dry to complete the bond.

As long as the pieces are not forced apart while the glue is still in the gel state, the tack is strong enough to create a good bond. On the other hand, if you don’t like the positioning of the pieces, you can separate them for some time before the bond becomes too strong.

The glue blocks you see behind legs and on the inside corners of old case furniture were positioned with this rubbing technique, called a “rub joint.” It’s not uncommon to see glue blocks still sound after 200 years, especially if the grain of both parts runs parallel.

You can use a rub joint to replace broken pieces on carvings, small pieces of veneer, and other parts that would be difficult to clamp. You can also strengthen case furniture by regluing old glue blocks or by inserting new ones. Just be sure to remove chunks of old glue to create room for rubbing, and remember that the surfaces have to fit snugly for a good bond. You can’t glue air spaces.

Paul Jones says:

Great tips Colin. You should do another video on Gluing Hacks for edge gluing (cutting boards, tabletops, etc). I'm sure it would be very beneficial.

Tim Caron says:

Great ideas Colin.  I love the staple trick, splendidly simple and easy.  I think I will use this way from now on.  Take care.   Tim

AKA Nathan says:

Some good tips. Though I don't prefer to have hidden steel in timberwork the brads or cut nails would be good and quick methods. I really like the staple idea. The only change I would make would be to add them on opposing angles (as a X) as the perpendicular (right angle to the glue face) ones could rack a little and have the boards still slide a little. Cheers for the video..

Curt Parker says:

If you are having that much of a problem with glue ups sliding around that you need nails and other help to clamp them together you are using entirely to much glue to begin with. When you clamp your work piece together and have more than little beads of glue squeezing out you are just wasting glue. If glue is running down the sides you are just creating more work on yourself because you need to do extra sanding to make sure you remove ALL of the extra glue squeeze out other wise every place the glue was will show in your finish.
If you do put just a little to much glue on do like others said, wait a few minutes for the glue to dry up a little bit, or (with Titebond glue) you can put the 2 pieces together and slide them back and forth and in seconds the 2 pieces will tighten up then put them in position and clamp.

Rudi Reiling says:

Hi Colin as always great tips.
Thank you for that.
Use your tips again and again, glad you have your channel. Keep it up.
Bye Rudi

Hans de Groot says:

Those are great tips. Thanks for sharing. Number 1 or 2 I'd prefer at my next glue ups.
Number 3 is a little bit confusing. At first is mentioned 18 gauge, later on it's too thick and 23/24 is mentioned and a moment
later 18 gauge again.

krn14242 says:

Great tips Colin. Thanks.

JCnME 4ever says:

Thanks Colin for your dedication, it helps us newbies become better woodworkers.

Bob Kinsley says:

How did you make the hand plane holder that can be seen on the tool wall ?

Michael Koga says:

Stapler is great idea. You forgot to mention obvious you can remove them easily.
I usually just do the clamp trick.

Nige Grumlin says:

Great tips Colin. Thanks for sharing them.

Mark McCluney says:

Another very enjoyable vid Colin, thanks for that. The clipped-off pins method is how some luthiers ensure fretboards locate correctly when gluing on to a instrument neck. Plenty of good stuff in this one. Thanks again.

Randy Perkins says:

Great tips. For anyone reading for more tips, I'll use a clamp or 2 from the top of my project to the underside of my table but that is usually because it's bowed. Mostly I do it like I cook or any of my hobbies I put some TLC in. If you just pay attention and go back to it to make sure it gets past the slippery stage and you'll have no problem

gsilcoful says:

Good hacks.

Write a comment


16 + 3 =