Important Woodworking Expertise – Japanese Saws 101, Ideas, Methods and Shopping for Recommendation

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On this woodworking expertise video we cowl Japanese Pull Saws 101, ideas, methods, dozuki, ryoba, flush trim and kataba. I’m going over fundamental use methods and a few nice methods to getting essentially the most out of your noticed. Thanks for watching! Please like, remark and subscribe. Cheers!
Folding Dozuki (Dovetail):
Dozuki (Dovetail) 9.5”:
Dozuki (Dovetail) eight”:
Dozuki (Dovetail) 6”:
Folding Ryoba (Double Sided):
Ryoba (Double Sided):
Kataba 10”:
Flush Trim:
Handmade Flush Trim: Strive Ebay
Low cost Flush trim:
Purchase the Katz-Moses Magnetic Dovetail Jig:
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Marking Knife:
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Dewalt Planer Package deal:
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5 Minute Epoxy:
Triton three ¼ hp Router (with in-built elevate and edge information incl):
Kreg Router Plate:
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Bosch 1 HP Colt Router Set With Mounted and Plunge Base:
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Centering Cone:
¼” Cheap Router Bit Set:
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Whiteside ¼” shank Spiral Upcut Bit ⅛”:
Whiteside ¼” Shank Spiral Upcut Bit 1/four”:
45 Diploma Bit I Like:
Whiteside Inlay Package I like:
Flush Trim Bit I Use All The Time for smaller purposes:
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Jimi G says:

So what makes the difference in saw length? You have 3 different dovetail saws listed. Why not just use one for all?

Kurgosh1 says:

I'm a little surprised that nobody's introduced (at least that I can find) pull saws with a western style handle. The straight handle on Japanese saws is less comfortable (IMO), but cutting on the pull stroke is great. Why not combine them?

Gas'n'Oil says:

I myself use Japanese saw and never used a western saw for joinery. My two concerns with Japanese saws though, are long term cost and self-sustainability. Eventually, those replacement blades will add up to cost waaaaaaay more than the one Veritas saw that you will buy. Also I like the idea of being able to sharpen my tool, instead of having to run out to the store or order online when my saw becomes dull.

Roy McLean says:

I notice you start from the near edge when you cross cut. I think I get a straighter cut when I start from the far edge because the blade is so flexible. I have to blow the sawdust away to keep an eye on the mark. I just wonder if the correct technique is to start on the far edge or the near edge?

flutingourwaytopeace says:

Hello Jonathon. i am a Japanese saw fan, too, but I own, so far, the smaller size handles and blades without the rib, as i use them to split branches lengthways to make flutes. Do you have a video on your channel that shows how to change the old blade for a replacement blade, please? thank you for sharing your knowledge and insights. My husband also loves the more sturdy Japanese pull saws, so I will mention this channel to him 😀

Kazuaki Flowerdeliverer says:

your the handmade saw was made by the traditional master craftsman Third generation Juntaro Mitsukawa(光川順太郎).

Keith Barnes Jr says:

OH NO! I should have watched this video before I ordered my Suizan and dovetail jig.. Can the smaller one still work with the dovetail jig? Or should I wait and order the folding one before using it with your jig?

Jay Zandegiacomo says:

My Japanese saws are my favourite tools I own hands down.

Sarcastic Guitar says:

I read some reviews that said you couldn’t use magnetic guides with the Japanese saws. Is that information wrong?

Sean White says:

Pronounced Ree-yo-Ba. Great enthusiasm and Knowledge.

Thomas Holloway says:

Nice, didn't know about the kataba saw! Will have to add that to my list 😀

Maarten Mägi says:

I use japanese saws all the time and I have never broken any of my saws teeth. The main reason why saw teeth break of is you apply to much force or cut way to aggressively.

AdventuresInDIY says:

Nice video! Thanks. I love using Japanese handsaws. I've been using my ryoba for general purpose carpentry, cutting plywood and OSB without any issues.

Mark Harris says:

I’m really new to woodworking and, as I think many people do, I went out and bought several western saws. After watching lots (and I mean lots) of YouTube videos when I realised I needed a flush saw I went Japanese. I took to it like a duck to water, and maybe because I didn’t have the best technique with Western saws I actually found it easier to use. I will definitely be getting more as I need different or new saws.

Prepperjon says:

This might be a dumb question but I have to ask lol. I was at my local news and cigar store looking at all the woodwork magazines trying to choose one to subscribe to and couldn’t make up my mind on which one. So, yes I’m asking you lol. Can you recommend one for us newbies lol. There’s so many I can’t pick one. Thank you

Prepperjon says:

Years ago I bought a couple of these saws at a yard sale but had no idea what their intended use was (way before internet) so I used them for everything and anything. Kind of like the guy who gets under the kitchen sink and pulls out his leatherman lol

Rex Walters says:

Thought you might be interested to know that the word ryo in Japanese means both or two. (It’s also pronounced as a single syllable sounding more like “row” or maybe a little like “Rio”, but definitely not “rye-oh”.)

The word “ha” literally means tooth. So ryo-ha (pronounced ryoba) means teeth on both sides. “Kata” means one-side, so kataba has teeth on only one side.

And “oru” means to bend or break, so Olfa knives (oru-ha) have breakable teeth to create a new cutting edge. Another great tool for the shop.

wayne d says:

love the video man but pls remember that the japanese always start with respect for the wood. have you ever seen a japanese wood worker with teeth missing from their saws?

Adam Wilson says:

I'm gonna have to buy a cheap one locally and try it. Started a project for a Xmas gift and realized it's not easy to cut dovetails with a 24" back saw.

Capt I says:

There’s also a really great primer at FWW entitled “Choosing and Using Japanese Handsaws” that’s worth reading, I think.

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