Dangerous Concepts in Woodworking Episode three / Workshop Fails

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Workshop security is at all times a precedence, particularly when working round equipment and energy instruments as a result of issues can go fallacious in a short time in your workbench and typically the outcomes usually are not the perfect when desk saws, bandsaws, planers, jointers, sanders, skilsaw, and even a drill press may be the reason for a nasty day within the workshop and right here are some things to look at for.

Dangerous Concepts In Woodworking Episode 2: https://youtu.be/uVvth63pEsE
Dangerous Concepts In Woodworking Episode 1: https://youtu.be/ONd29lTbxZ4
Milling Wooden Utilizing a Bandsaw: https://youtu.be/ayrrT8h9gj4
Make a Round Noticed Information: https://youtu.be/d81qIn-oT2o
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Monte Glover says:

My favorite is RIDGID Flip Top there are other similar ones available

Sebastopolmark says:

GREAT video Colin. The "at this time" 46 lug nuts that are thumbs down are the same ones that suggest that you put a larger circuit breaker in the panel to avoid the breaker tripping! !! !!!

Nikki Mcdonald says:

Fantastic video 👍thanks for the good advice 😁

Rick Price says:

Just take a look at your wiring. 12 guage COPPER wire is rated at 20 amps. The older Aluminum wire is not good above 15 amps. I'd be surprised if there is no protection in a decent saw.

Old Sneelock's Workshop says:

Great vid. I discussed video subjects with my co-writer. My wife said pro builders and craftsman seldom watch videos to see how things are done. Write for the newbie. That is who is really our audience.
I followed through with that thought and your video is a great example. Things that the experienced person would know is exactly what the newbie needs to see.
Thanks for guiding your viewers to some commonly uncommon sense concepts.
I especially like use the plywood guide for jointing boards.

Huw Davies says:

How can 39 people, at the time I watched this video, not like some fantastic tips that will keep you safe in the workshop and get you better results because of them. Thanks Colin. Cheers, Huw

William Todd says:

Using a 15amp circuit breaker for a motor rated at 15amps is almost guaranteed to trip the breaker…the amperage is usually the running amps, startup amps are much higher, and in cold weather you'll forever be tripping breakers on many machines. If you are building a shop run 20amp breakers for tools at a minimum, 15amp breakers for lights is fine, but for tools 20amp is best, so run the appropriate wiring for the larger breakers. If your motor is bad, it may not trip the breaker in the first place….and you don't want to trip a breaker when your table saw is under load either for example, so have your electrical panel and switches upgraded to handle the load…many shops were never built for running large tools, maybe a drill or skilsaw but not many were designed and built initially to run those big stationary tools.

David Guy says:

les tete à billes ne sont valables que si elles sont assez nombreuse ( comme une planche de fakir)

charles hetrick says:

The transfer balls are awesome I’ve never had a problem with mine. With the rolling pin style it’s entirely too time consuming on a job site getting them perpendicular. If you don’t they wander the work piece. Buy more transfer balls and stagger their spacing.

The absolute best and what I use in my shop is an air hockey type system, best part is that the airflow is reversible. Work pieces either float or are auctioned in place.

V Segarich says:

Like this video but would like to point out that if a motor that pulls approximately 15 amps or 1.5 HP it will likely trip a 15 amp breaker on start up. Depending on motor design, age, and condition it could pull as many as 18 amps briefly when starting and trip a 15 amp breaker. Switching to a 20 amp breaker AND changing to 12 gauge wire is the prudent thing to do. A motor that is going to burn out will not receive any more protection from a 15 amp breaker than a 20 amp breaker. Going by that trend of thought we would have to use 5 amp and 10 amp breakers for our lower load saws and routers.

tomasci1 says:

On your video you show no support with the jig are using the as it set up right now you’re gonna cut the top of your tablesaw when you go across that you have to show the fact that you have a Nother board or something underneath it to support that board above the table I work with people all the time that don’t have common sense and they would see what you have there and just go ahead and try to do it right on their table you have to have support up under the border raise it up so that you don’t cut the top of your table thank you.

Robert Horn says:

The roller is great as long as it is EXACTLY 90 deg. to the wood travel. Just a little off and it tends to pull the wood off line.
Waxing the roller helps, but if the wood is not perfectly dry it still can cause some drifting.

Harry Davis says:

Good information. Thanks, Colin.

Ralf Schröder says:

great Tipps.
thank you very much for that.
I love your channel
greatings from the north-sea-coast of germany.

SciGuy says:

Five missing fingers of fear!

Wiliam Bennett says:

Ok 1st let me say KUDOS to you on the 15 Amp breaker. I've have worked as an Journeyman Electrician and have seen the exact problem with people changing their 15's to a 20 Amp. On thing that "Most" People do not realize is YES their circuit is #12awg wiring and "Technically" is rated for 20 amp loads…BUT they fail to take into account what else is on that circuit other than that one motor. And also fail to see what distance is between that motor and the circuit panel. If they Need To Up Their Amp Draw Upgrade The Wiring to a #10awg. Check your NEMA RATING on your motor for the RLA and SRA. Ideally you should not go above 3-5% amp draw above this.
Heres a Pro-Tip, if you think your circuit breaker is bad, when you remove it, turn it into the ON position, then slap it hard it onto the palm of the other hand, if it trips to a NEUTRAL position its GOOD, but if it fails to trip ITS BAD.

marbleman52 says:

My sliding mitre saw sits on top of a long table that is against the back wall of my shop and that is it's permanent home. So what I did was just make a couple of long rectangular boxes and made them to where they are the same height as the mitre saw table and put them on both sides of the saw. Now I have about a 10 Ft. extension total that works great when I'm needing to cut a long board, or any length. Yea, some people will have the mitre saw sitting down in a recess and have the mitre saw table even with the bench top and that works great too. All of these reminders or warnings are always good to mention from time to time.

Bram the Wadesmill woodturner says:

Great subject and video Colin !

Walter Rider says:

thank you Colin and yup

Harvey Griffin says:

As all ways lots of very good and safe tips thanks for your time

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