How To Make Miter/Bevel joints that are not 90 levels – Woodworking Suggestions

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On this woodworking tip video I present how you can make miters and bevels on a desk noticed that are not 90 levels. I assume technically these are bevels…however folks generally seek advice from them as miters, so I am sticking with it. I am unable to keep in mind the place I realized this trick however I take advantage of it fairly a bit. The cool factor about it’s that it takes quite a lot of the human error out of attempting to completely dial in 2 totally different angles in your noticed. It additionally lets you make cuts that would not be potential usually, as operating the piece horizontally and vertically offers the identical performance as a noticed that might tilt 90 levels, as an alternative of the conventional 45.

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Comments

Josh Mrochuk says:

Love the explanation, wish I could learn everything about woodworking from you!

Rik Roberts says:

Thanks. I had the technique figured out with going vertical, but my jig wasn't sufficient and I took off half a fingernail. Watching this and seeing your jig and the clamps makes me confident to try again.

Starr Stroh says:

so i made it too 😀 just by using woodprix plans:)

rubygreen gaming says:

Thanks cutting mitters at school and for some reason, I just could not get it through my head it equaled 90 degrees I feel like face palming right now.

seahorse says:

Hi, I've got a mitre saw with left bevel up to 45 degree, I want to flat cut a piece of laminate plunk with one end in a 30 degree acute angle, in bevel, NOT mitre, can that be done with my mitre saw? If not, I am thinking to cut it with the way you did in this video on a table saw, but the plunk is 40" x 7", how can I make a jig that high to push the piece? Any idea?

Sam cooper says:

hey mate was wondering what the measurements were for this piece ?

Carl Fusco says:

Chris, how are you determining the measurements to cut the pieces so they fit in that trapezoidal shape? If the top is at a known normal dimension its not likely that the bottom will be.

sani iman pribadi says:

Juoss lek, lanjtukan

Johannes Helbig says:

Hey, which program do you use for sketching your pieces?
love your work btw! keep it up!

Alejandro Alvarez says:

I really enjoy your videos.This video was helpful with cutting non90 inside corner for some tall baseboard. Made a jig and bam, tight miter. Thanks. Looking forward to the next vid.

Daniel says:

You are placing the wood piece which is shorter than wider between the fence and the blade – aren’t you afraid of a kickback?

Caleb L. says:

Why did I get emotional over a woodworking video? I just was wanting to make bevels…
Consider me a subscriber, Chris!

Ryan Heaney says:

You're like the Nerdwriter1 of woodworking! This is brilliant. Thank you.

Jayce Kroll says:

I have been struggling in my woodshop class to find a way to cut those angles. Thanks my man

D Tom says:

Good info but there is a safety problem. At the 1:10 minute mark you show pushing the workpiece through with the narrow end against the fence. Just a slight twist of the board will ruin the cut or worse, throw the board back at the operator! Always us a table saw miter gauge to guide narrow boards through the cut.

Mike Ehrmantraut says:

how can i cut 60 degrees? 😛

john suh says:

Awesome video. I'm just starting to get into wood working and I've been stressing out over a bevel cut. Thanks for the video and encouragement.

Blake Lewis says:

This makes much more sense then the other 28,100 videos that are out there. You provide a simplified explanation.

James McIntyre says:

Thanks for the great info. Will use it. I was reading a comment from My Saw stating you should use a miter gauge.I can see why you didn't use it in that small piece, no room, but why can't you use on on larger pieces?Thank you for sharing your great work.

Chris Porter says:

Bit of a random question, but based off this video (and the first video you did of the bench). To get a bevel >45deg on a table saw, you seem to regularly orient the board vertically to make the cut. Totally get the geometry. But wondering if you had any tips for doing a vertical orientation to put a taper on the edge of a 1.8m long board? (i.e. putting a 25deg taper on a full table surface) Short of standing on my table saw (which seems dicey as all get out to me) i cant think of any other way to do it; save perhaps buying a rather expensive router bit.

Suggestions?

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