Unhealthy Concepts in Woodworking Episode 2 / Workshop Fails

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There are various dangerous concepts in woodworking that whenever you take an excellent have a look at them, are actually not and a few may even be harmful particularly when working round energy instruments like round saws and woodworking equipment like desk saws however security should all the time come first.

On this video, I present you four frequent woodworking fails NOT to make in your woodworking woodshop. Together with identified errors on your workbench, desk noticed. glue, screws and different woodworking instruments.

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Unhealthy Concepts In Woodworking Episode 1: https://youtu.be/ONd29lTbxZ4
Workshop Hacks Half eight: Woodworking Ideas and Tips https://youtu.be/rKp0N3zrqfU
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Comments

Ken Staring says:

Colin, Excellent tips. Thank You

Paul Kolodner says:

A tiny correction: they are called "rare-earth magnets", not "earth magnets". The term refers to a family of elements that have useful magnetic properties. Yes, they're rare.

Sapele Steve says:

Great video Colin! However, reading the comments, the cut off idea using a circular saw seems to have opened up a can of worms. Anyway, Happy Holidays to you & your family!

LiPe VoLcOm says:

Actually, Forrest saw blade company says that " the blade in the table saw should be very high, so the tooth runs cooler." Just take a look on their videos about their saw

Robert Brunston says:

Very good! Thanks

marty scheidecker says:

Why does your router table have a miter slot?

Peter Menningen says:

Before using the miter slots as the reference for square make sure it is aligned with the blade. Even factory settings can be off on lower cost machines. Do this especially on Job or construction type saws that travel and get kicked about. Go back to the owners manual even download it for a reference

Mean's Woodshop says:

Good tips, Collin. I know not to use a miter gage in combination with the fence on s table saw, but not on the router table, which now that you mention it, it makes sense. I’m guilty of doing that on my own channel, I haven’t for some time, but I’ve done it before. Also squaring the gauge up with the miter slot rather than the blade, I will definitely be doing that now.

TurboFlush says:

Put the magnet farthur up in the push stick. Away from the blade

Cliff Jones says:

A great how to, been using this method for 10+ years ( the foam insulation )

redcon1gear says:

Nice video thank you

Mohammad Faghihi says:

It very good to see, learn and prevent, instead of trying wrong methods and getting injured!
Thanks 🙂

Russ Veinot says:

great tips. As to the Styrofoam under your work, the only issue is the storing a big piece of it between jobs. I glued 1-1/2" Styrofoam to 1/4" plywood strips to one side to make 2×4 sized Styrofoam boards. They are easy to use, durable, and easy to store since they are 2×4 sized . I did a couple of videos about making and using them on my channel. thanks for the tips.

RAW ART says:

I really value all opinions. The give and take presentation demonstrate thoughts. When we stop to think, we may rethink our "position" angles. At the big 80 age, I still get in a hurry. I am still recovering from a broken wrist by being in a hurry, tired, taking a short cut and not moving obstructions. A very Blessed Christmas and remember: Jesus is the reason for this season.

Hal Songer says:

If you really want to have a magnet on your push stick, mount it in the handle part instead of the body. That way if the blade is high enough to hit it you would have already lost a couple of fingers and you won't be worried about the magnet bits flying around so much.

Thanks as always Colin and have a merry Christmas!

Pro1er says:

Colin, have you even done a tour of your workshop? On the videos it looks to be of modest size but you still seem to have plenty of room to work and store your tools.

CD Snider says:

I naturally want to be so critical, but I can't. Great video

Joe Brown says:

Nice safety tips. I use a miter gauge with my router table. I don't see a problem.

Pepo TheLast says:

Thank you for your valuable lessons!

James Biggar says:

No, sorry bud. Been a journeyman carpenter for over 20 years and the most common mistake I see people making that causes lumber to pinch their circ blade is thinking that they need to support the waste piece that's being cut off. I scold my newbie employees when they do this, especially if someone else is holding on to the end of the lumber. DO NOT DO THAT. I've seen too many accidents this way to just scroll through the comments here without saying anything. People have a tendency to inadvertently pull the cut off up or to one side or the other as it's being cut, then stand there with a silly look on their face while you growl at them when the blade binds and kicks back. "Just trying to help!". Well, you're not. It's extremely dangerous to do if the lumber isn't secured perfectly flat and firmly in position like it would be against a miter saw fence. Sorry, Safety Sallies – but that's reality. Letting the cut off fall away is what you're going to see happen on nearly every job site. What you're not going to see is a competent carpenter using an expensive piece of extruded polystyrene as a cutting surface. If you doubt it then you're welcome to join me on site and prove me wrong (since Colin neglected to do a demo himself). The styrofoam might actually provide something of a grip to help hold things steady, but it has to be on a perfectly flat surface which is often hard to find on a job site unless you bend over and cut on the floor of the structure you're building, or spend half a day's worth of your customer's $ making a temporary workbench. If the waste piece is free to fall away, then 99% of the time it won't pinch the blade, but any upward or lateral movement of any kind will cause you trouble. Letting it fall to the floor isn't ideal in some cases either, I'll give you that – but only in some cases. If the piece is really long, then one end will hit the floor while the other end is still partially attached, causing a twist in the kerf or the bottom edge of the lumber to ride up the side of the blade and pinch it. In this case, I place a support ~1/2 – 1" below the cut off piece so that it can fall away some but not bind on the bottom of the blade. Lingering in the cut isn't helpful either. If it takes you more than 2 or 3 seconds to get through a 2×4, then you're taking way too long. Move faster and more confidently, or get a better blade. The more time the cut off spends partially attached in mid air, the more likely it is to start bouncing around and jamming the blade.

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