Desk sawing ideas from a grasp woodworker: End Cuts

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Comments

Nathan Olson says:

Hey stumpy im trying to make a canvas tent with no glue or fasteners and was wondering what would be the best joint to connect end grain butts so im not carrying 10 foot poles into the wood i was thinking drawboring tenon any advice?

Scott B says:

I tried the skim cut and it was good but followed it up w my no 5 hand plane was better, I like sand paper on the push stick for better control , and push towards the fence

Gerry GOLDER says:

That answers a lot

mothman1967 says:

I agree 100% with what he said. I would like to point out another about making that second pass. Many will say they never do this, but I'll just tell the truth: I have always had problems with burning certain wood. Red oak? No problem. White oak? Generally no problem, and the same with hickory. Maple? I have a knack for toasting the edge. If I cut slightly over (1/2 to 1 mm over), the second cut is just enough to clean it up, and there is so little resistance that it doesn't burn.

BTW: Greatest leap forward in my woodworking was years ago, when I gave up archaic measurements such as inches, cubits, and the like and started using metric system. No need to concern yourself with meters, centimeters, or any of that: MEASURE AND CUT IN MILLIMETERS. Generally, within 1mm works perfectly, but sometimes to 1/2mm for really close work. If you are still using ancient measurements, give it a try and watch the fit of your work tighten up nicely. You'll never use that cubit stick again.

John St. John says:

Great tips, thanks!

Christopher Jess Ngo says:

Hi there bro how good is the blade your using now compare to frued diablo? Cause i just got mine and get easily nick when i cut thru one old 1inch nail. i thought carbide blade cant get easily damage please let me know your take on this. And how much is your blade of 10inch general purpose 40t. Thanks in advance

74Beeper says:

Ol Chuck is great…. I've learned a helluva lot from him about stains and finishes…. Thanks for sharing!

Fred Parsons says:

Charles is definitely worth following! Excellent master woodworker!

Scott louis says:

I noticed myself doing that years ago & still have to guard against that

Jason Enz says:

I've used adhesive backed sandpaper on my push sticks for years…I can't fathom why EVERYONE doesn't do this!!! I've seen guys in the shop using push sticks without sandpaper and I literally see it slipping toward the fence so they bear down trying to keep it from sliding more. How can you trust your cuts when it does that? I've tried plasti-dip instead of sand paper and that works decent too…especially if your cutting a piece that was already finished.
I'm so glad he mentioned that! Go get some adhesive backed sandpaper or some spray adhesive and regular sand paper or even plasti-dip…ANYTHING to keep the push stick from sliding around.
If you're using a birds mouth push stick, well you're just asking for issues lol.
Thanks for a great video!!!
🙂

J Raglob-Scrap Wood Design says:

Another great tip, I love this guy. Everyone's videos have such a clean, perfect shop and they are never dirty. This looks more like my shop. No offense Stumpy, I still love all your videos!

David Harvey says:

Makes sense to me! Thanks for sharing

738polarbear says:

James never fails to give good solid advice

Michael Perez says:

I’m glad that I’ve noticed this early on just looking at the table from a geometric perspective. He seems like a man of much knowledge.

Tioga Fretworks says:

Charles is da man. 45 yrs ago I was taught to grab a push block and always angle it slightly toward the fence. This ensures you are pushing down, through the cut, and against the fence / all at the same time. You do not need a $100 Grrr-ripper to do that. I can hear/feel potential problems immediately / if a kerf is trying to close on the blade I grab a plastic shim (kept nearby) with my left hand and place it in the kerf behind the blade. With these techniques I haven’t had a kickback scare since I was a stupid teenager.

Michael McDonald says:

Ya i've been doing the wrist trick for years now but I have never heard anyone else talk about it. Its why the tiny push sticks bug me cause you can't grip it and put that slight turn pressure on it

Scott Gammel says:

Thanks bringing this info to our attention

Sirwoody1 Sirwoody1 says:

so I am doing it right . thanks

Tim Royal says:

Great tip as always, James!

marbleman52 says:

I agree with the 2nd cut on a table saw and especially if one doesn't have a jointer, like me. maybe Santa will bring me one for Xmas ? Now where did I put the pencil and paper? Is a 2nd cut the only way to get a 90 Deg. to the top edge? No, but it sure makes for more consistent 90 Deg. angles. I also like the long handled push stick that Charles Neil has. I have a variation on that stick that I bought at Amazon and then made 2 more based on, but not exactly that design and made those about .200 thick so I could run multiple thin pieces between the fence and blade, of which I do a lot. I really like having my hand & fingers well above the blade. Now if just need 1 thin slice of wood then I usually cut that piece on the left side of the blade. Of course a really good and true and sharp blade also has a big role for this situation. And I sure do appreciate Neil showing us the need to have your entire arm parallel to the fence to help guide the wood straight thru and past the blade. I will remember that the next time I use my table saw; which is just about every time I get in my shop. This was a great lesson for those who are new to the table saw, and also a good reminder to those of us that have thousands of hours at the saw..and hopefully still with all 8 fingers and 2 thumbs.

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